Travis Shears

first climb kochel

16.03.2020 -- #

Last weekend I was ski touring in the Kitzbühel range and this weekend sport climbing in Kochel. Can’t get this everywhere. Bavaria makes for a good home. The alps a playground. With snow still visible on the summits, the lower elevations are starting to warm up. Thanks to a very mild winter the south-facing walls are in prime condition. Ready to climb. The season has begun. Not bad timing either, with Coronavirus quarantine the gyms are closed.

hope none of you are sick

hope none of you are sick

Not going to the climbing gym or swimming pool cuts into my weekly activites. Working from home has me cooped up in my studio apartment. So I’m taking all the opportunities for fresh mountain air.

This was my first time climbing in Kochel. We picked a popular route to get aquatinted with the area.

Climbing area: Wiesenwand

Route: Museumssteig

Grade: UIAA 6+

first climb of the year

first climb of the year

The moves, once you figure them out, are not that bad. Problem: hadn’t touched real rock in serval months. About halfway up I was leading about a 1.5m past my last quick draw. Hmm let me try this. No this. Nope. Nope. Oh my legs are starting to shake.. Are they tired or am I just scared or both 🙀. Eventually, I remembered to follow the chalk and found good placements. After securing the quick draw I had a very spiritual moment with the rock.

belaying my partner

belaying my partner

Kochel was a great place to start the season and I look forward to going back there for more.

spring climbing season goals

  1. Safety, safety, safety.
  2. Sports routes and picnicking with my climbing mentor and his children.
  3. The higher routes on Alpspitze. Got copies of guide book ready to go.
  4. Incorporate more Munter hitch into multipitch routine.

When going over some missing piece situations such as what to do if you drop your ATC, I was reminded of the Munter hitch. This old school hitch only requires rope and a HMS carabiner. It can be used for rappelling, belaying from the harness, and belaying from the anchor. What’s not to like. I’ve yet to experience how much it can coil the rope but it seems manageable. For quick belay from the anchor while on multipitch route it seems perfect. We have been practicing it at home and look forward to next our big climb.

\- [ alpinism, climbing ]