weekend in frankenjura - 07-05-20

Finally we escaped the Munich area! Corona lockdown have not been easy and weekend in Frankenjura was perfect distraction. Great place for climbing and SUP adventures.

Climbing

The amount of climbing on Frankenjura is incredible. Multiple 1000s of routes spaced out in approx 2000 square km and two thick guide books. It is primarily single pitch bolted sports routes ranging from 15m to 40m. When selecting an area for my partner and I went for:

  • 40m high walls, tallest in the region
  • Multiple climbs of 5-6 UIAA difficulty
  • Had a 5 or 6 route that is considered classic
  • Can be reached from parking lot in less then 30min. Most climbs in the region are.
  • Sunny

Surprisingly even with this criteria multiple crags fit. We decided on the Tubachtal area’s Röthefels 8.

butterfly helping belay

crag location

crag location

route topo

route topo

The path from the parking lot crosses through an archery course. Great thing to find our when you are wondering off trail looking for the crag. Foam boar to keep you company. Luckily I was in bright orange and no one was practicing.

Parking lot location

Guide Book

Röthefels Crag review:

  • Rock was solid and not much loose stuff
  • Approach is ok once you know where trail is
  • Base is in forest, once you climb above the trees the view over the valley is amazing
  • There were other climbers but would not call it busy
very green rope

very green rope

On the second day we stopped by a Schlaraffenland Crag. It was much easier to get to and had a canopied valley for kids to play.

SUP

So far this has been the summer of the SUP. Since we got one a few months ago we’ve been out on the water almost every weekend. This trip we got to try it in on our first river, the Pegnitz! Also made it out to a lake, Hirschbach.

hanging out on the Pegnitz

hanging out on the Pegnitz

down by the river

long hair is coming

long hair is coming

Camping

Campingplatz Jurahöhe

Not the most scenic camp ground but it was clean and the people were nice. There were strict hygiene rules of wearing masks in the public facilities and only 4 people in the bathing room at a time 👍. Located not far outside Pottenstein its great base for making day excursions in the area.

i fit!

i fit!

cooking up breakfast

cooking up breakfast

yum

Was our few nights in our new MSR Hubba Hubba NX 2. A tent bought with backpacking in mind is still plenty rugged for car camping. ⛺So far so good.

👍 or 👎

While not the airy multi pitch climbs I dream about, Frankenjura is home to some nice sport routes and ton of great nature. Next time I want to visit some of the many caves.

tags: [alpinism] [climbing] [camping] [holiday]